Via SWELL Cinema
There is nothing fun about being caught on the inside, the typical thought process of ‘I’ll just go the first set’ is never a good one when you pull off the back and see the horizon stacked, that’s when the anxiety kicks into over drive as you scramble onto your board and paddle like a maniac hoping not be the guy that gets cleaned up.
Imagine that anxious feeling then times it by 1000, that’s what Mark Healey is feeling right here as he is about to receive a 30 footer on the head at Mavericks – the uneasy feeling of knowing surfers have died here in similar situations pushes the anxiety through the roof.
This ain’t Mark’s first rodeo and certainly not his last, here’s a wave he’ll never forget – the 2012 mega swell in Fiji where he found himself in quite the predicament. Mark’s board about to be crushed by the wave of the swell after bailing: